Sarria
We had sensibly planned a full day in Sarria before launching into El Camino. We assumed that there may be last minute issues to resolve before the walk, so a spare day to get organised made sense.
As it happened, notwithstanding our transport difficulties, everything seemed to have gone to plan, so all we we had left to do was to find a car park for our rental for the week. Excellent, we thought, a quiet day, with the only expected complication being our inability to speak any Spanish beyond 'hola', 'gracias' and 'hasta la vista, baby'.
We slept in a bit, then went to breakfast which was included in the price. The dining room was empty as all the other guests had been walkers getting an early start. Notably, the breakfast buffet table was also mostly empty. Regardless, we approached the desk confidently.
"But Senor, you have already had breakfast. See, you have been ticked off on the list". Say what!?
At first we assumed someone had got confused about their room numbers, but on checking the list every pre-paid breakfast had been ticked off. That meant that some cheeky group had used both of our room numbers to get free meals!
The waiter was very understanding and not only kindly let us proceed but he also rustled up some fresh supplies and barista coffee. Muchas gracias!
Suitably fortified, we took a stroll around the immediate area,
admired the small trout in the pristine river,
and enjoyed the marching bands commemorating St John The Baptist.
At least we think that's what is was for, because nobody we asked seemed to know.
The heat by now was firmly over 30 degrees, so after a simple lunch in the shade outside a riverside café, we went back to the air conditioned hotel.
While the ladies chilled in the room, I thought I would quickly sort out the car parking. Being a common starting point for El Camino, there are many walkers in the same situation, who drive to Sarria and leave their car parked for a week during the walk. Consequently, there were specialist companies who advertise secure parking at good rates.
A quick search on the Internet narrowed it down to 2 options, neither of whom picked up their phone. In hindsight, that should have been a warning...
Instead, full of optimism, I simply programmed the destination of the first one into the GPS, and off I went, 2km as the crow flies. 10km later of tight one way streets, road works, and inexplicably blocked streets, I pulled up outside an abandoned factory.
Scratch option A. Off to Option B.
As you may well have guessed, that involved retracing my route almost back to the hotel before starting an equally tortuous path... to a derelict building site.
Hot, bothered, and unamused, I went back to the hotel and thought I would try the hotel reception staff to see if they knew of any parking operators who were actually still in business.
"No problem Senor, just leave it here, no cost at all".
"For a whole week? Free of charge?"
"Si Senor"
Wow... Full credit to Hotel Alfonso IX, first sorting out breakfast, now parking.
To celebrate, and to cool down before dinner, we popped into the hotel bar. The breakfast crew had gone off duty, replaced by 3 bar staff.
"Aperol spritz, por favor".
"Que?"
"Aperol spritz".
"We don't have".
"But there's an Aperol bottle right there behind you, and it's less than half full so somebody must be making them".
"I get someone else".
We tried all three staff, and Liz even used Google Translate to get the Spanish version, which is: 'Aperol spritz'. No joy, just blank stares.
Liz then tried Googling 'How to make Aperol spritz" and showed the recipe to the staff. Who nodded, and promptly started grabbing random ingredients.
Finally Liz solved the problem:
"Vodka lemonade por favor"
"Si, si, we can do".
Out came a massive glass, ice was added, then vodka was poured. And poured. And poured...
By the time we noticed and intervened, I swear Liz's drink was 50/50 vodka lemonade! No wonder Spaniards need a a siesta every day.
I managed to get them to hold back while pouring Mary's drink, to keep it to a more reasonable ratio, then by way of a raised eyebrow the bar staff asked how much I would like.
"Beer, por favor"...
The next day we arose early to get a good start before the heat of the day, and went to breakfast. The same waiter was on duty as the morning before and I went to get signed off. He checked his list, looked at me apologetically and said "Sorry, no breakfast today".
After watching our stunned faces for a few seconds, he burst into laughter, and escorted us to a reserved table. He then fussed over us, ensuring we were well fed etc., and made a point of wishing us Buen Camino as we left.
Excellent service. I think he should be promoted to barman...
So, time to grab our day packs and hit the trail!
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